I should mention that I do not approve of breeding rabbits which are not quality purebreds. I do not approve of breeding rabbits when it is not done for a clearly defined purpose, as part of a planned breeding program. To breed any kind of animal on a casual whim is immature and irresponsible.

The doe should be plucked or clipped before breeding. Check the buck to make sure that his genitalia are not wool-bound. The doe’s vent should be bright pink and fairly swollen. If it is not, she may not be receptive, and you will have to wait, checking her daily, before you can take her to the buck. Always take the doe to the buck’s cage. Always stay and watch the pair while they are together. The mating may occur in the blink of an eye, so WATCH!

The doe may go racing around the cage with the buck in dizzy pursuit. I think this needlessly tires the buck, so I use the restrained breeding technique, to spare the buck’s energies and to save time for me. I will put my right hand on the doe’s shoulders, holding her ears against her shoulders under my hand. I put my left hand under the doe, palm up, and use my fingers to gently push her vent upwards toward the buck. This will cause her tail to lift up, so it is out of the way.

One must be careful to hold the doe firmly so that she does not struggle and injure herself. If you decide to use this method, you do so at your own risk. You should be aware that some breeders have accidentally caused their doe to break her back or a leg, when they improperly attempted a restrained breeding.

The buck will mount and breed the doe, usually within just a few seconds, then he will fall over backwards. This is how you know that your doe was bred. However, always mark each attempt on the calendar. It is possible for the doe to be bred without a novice realizing what has happened.

After the breeding, return the doe to her own cage.

If a successful mating is not observed, do not be tempted to just go off and leave the doe in with the buck, because they might injure each other.